Day 1: Briefing and Preparation

I can’t say that my mind has allowed me to be entirely peaceful about the venture I am about to undertake. Every time and everywhere I read about the Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu, I hear words like “challenging” and “high level of fitness.” Do I have a high level of fitness, even at low altitude, without the effects of being over four thousand metres above sea level?  Probably not. Tasks that you would undertake so easily normally, like taking a sip of water, or climbing a couple of stairs, can leave you feeling like you are an obese, chainsmoker who has run a marathon. Your heart literally feels like it is about to explode from your chest, like some grotesque cartoon. I think it has helped me going to La Paz in Bolivia first. That is higher than Cusco and allowed me to acclimatise. I’ve also tried to develop my own way of breathing in sync with my steps, inhaling deeply through my mouth, filling my lungs, and exhaling slowly. A little bit like those ill fated singing lessons again. Bonus point if you know that story. I also spent time in both La Paz and Cusco deliberately going uphill for the practice. What I felt would be impossible just a week ago, now seems slightly more within reach. Plus, they have oxygen on hand too if I’m on my last legs, and a faithful steed to carry me onwards and upwards.  So as I write this I’m just about to go to the orientation meeting to find out what horrors-I mean delights- await us over the next five days.

Day 2: Cusco to Soraypampa (3,920 m) 14 km 

Today we were picked up at Millhouse Hostel about 6.30, loaded our duffel bags into the minibus and set off on the drive to Mollepata, where we had breakfast, before embarking on the fairly flat, leisurely, three hour hike to our first camp.  Soraypampa is a stunning setting. It is where we had lunch, and where we would have tea and sleep for the night, in tents that slotted, assembled, into a thatched covering (see photo below) This was our first taste of what Jorge, our chef for the trip, was capable of. Delicately prepared starters, delicious soups, nutritious mains, and gallons of juice and healthy teas.The snow-capped mountains took their place alongside lower peaks in a photograph-me-now panorama. My worst fears were confirmed as I looked steeply upwards: we were to climb for one and a half hours in order to reach the lagoon at the top.  I could say that it was a breeze and that I skipped my way to the top, but that would be a lie. It was incredibly difficult trying to catch breath, and particularly so with a group that was clearly so much fitter than me. Callie, 27, from Sth. Africa, had no trouble keeping up with Juan Carlos, and they were usually way in front. Werner and Susann, Swiss nationals who have lived in Australia for thirty years, are natural born hikers, used to climbing and very fit. The plus side was that they keep a slow pace and I was able to slot into their rhythm for much of the way. The breathing I had practised in La Paz and Cusco was hard to regulate on the mountain, but with sheer grit and determination we were at the top and looking out over the most glorious greens and browns as flurries of light hail stones dusted us.

The walk downhill is always much more bearable for me normally, although on this occasion I felt very light headed and nauseous the more we descended. I don’t know whether this was an altitude issue or whether the hike up the mountain had affected me. Still, it was good to get back to the tent and rest up for a bit before tea. I was also discovering that the altitude had caused me to lose my appetite and struggle to swallow, making it a chore to force down food that I knew was really nice. As I prepared to drift off into a welcome sleep after all the fresh air and exercise, I had a niggling thought that just would not leave me: the next day was going to be by far the hardest on the trek. Harder than today? Heaven help me.

 The family (Susann, Werner, Callie, Juan Carlos)  setting off to Humantay lagoon

Made it. Overlooking Humantay lagoon

The camp site, with Humantay behind.

Beautiful reflections on the lagoon

 

Day 3: Soraypampa to Colcapampa, via the high pass (Salkantay) (4,650 metres) 22km

I awoke from a reasonable, not-as-cold-as expected night’s sleep and, unable to locate my headlamp, negotiated my way to the toilet block courtesy of my iphone torch. I got back just in time for the wake up call and a mug of coca tea. Each day the wake up call signalled a half hour countdown to a hearty, filling, healthy breakfast to set you up for the day’s exertions.  Then before you knew it, it was time for the off. I was taken by surprise because we didn’t set off uphill immediately but walked along a meandering flat, low mountain path for a while, before the bit that had filled me with dread. As we started to climb I managed to get into a reasonable rhythm but lost it completely as other groups appeared on the paths and pushed their way past. We stopped every now and then to catch our breath, rehydrate and take stock of the increasingly impressive view, as the two huge mountains, Humantay on the left and Salkantay on the left, loomed ever closer. Four hours walking uphill is tough. A couple of people succumbed and took a horse to the top. I had joked about this the previous day with my adopted trek family, but was determined to make it. Added to the breathing difficulties associated with altitude, was a painful cramp at the top of my legs which lasted for the last hour. I had to literally use my arms to pull my legs up at various points of the final climb. It was excruciating but spurred me on to get to the top. Hidden away behind my sunglasses, my eyes filled up with relief, joy, excitement, and pride that I had succeeded mentally as much as physically. It was a very special moment. We stopped for obligatory photos before Juan Carlos took us on a walk across the huge glacial boulders that covered the high pass. We had the area to ourselves as others went separate ways. Unsure where we were going, we were unprepared for the surprise that he had had in store for us: way down below was another breathtaking green lagoon. Geography teachers would have a field day in this environment, explaining about glaciation. We sat on the boulders and learned about Quechuan traditions from the time of the Incas and made wishes that were sealed by the placing of three coca leaves in a sentimental place of our choosing. It was a very spiritual moment that linked us in time and place to those traditions. From there we started the long, two hour descent from 4650 metres, staying mountainside each time a horseman came along the path with two or three horses in tow. After a couple more brief breaks we reached Huayracpampa, where Jorge had manged, yet again, to find a spot to park his stove and cook up a feast. We never stopped to marvel at how he used his limited equipment and space to serve food that would have graced the table in a top class restaurant. By this point we had walked six hours and had only three to go. The most remarkable thing about this second day was the change from being virtually at the top of a snow capped mountain, to descending into the high jungle area, a massive difference in both temperature and topography. We began to see wild strawberries and orchids and rich, verdant landscapes. It seemed like we were at the camp in no time, and in daylight, unlike many others who rolled in well after dusk. We found this a little disconcerting, as we had passed through several narrow paths that dropped away steeply and needed concentration even while the sun was still up. We ate outside and had happy time, discussing the day and the delights of Jorge’s cooking,  while a cock crowed persistently and insistently. Then we settled down early for a much more comfortable night.

 

Salkantay mountain pass

Salkantay lagoon

The piles of rocks left in Inca ceremonies

Horses are the main means of transportation in these parts of the Andes

Day 4: Trek to la Playa and transfer to Santa Teresa (15 km) 

Today’s hike, in a different league to the previous day’s, nearly all flat or downhill, continued through the rich upper jungle area.  We descended to brooks and crossed the Santa Teresa river, stopping at waterfalls and traversing valleys before rising again. We had breaks a couple of times, sitting down at one point to eat ice lollies with a dead sloth stretched out in the tree above us. We finally reached a spot where we were picked up and taken to a coffee plantation where Jorge had once again miraculously appeared with his pots and pans to prepare lunch. After this we were introduced to the charismatic Freddie, a man who lives and breathes his plantation and demonstrates an exuberance that was both humorous and infectious. We were shown the various medicinal plants growing there, the citronella that keeps the mosquitoes at bay, the bananas that provide a sap that counteracts mosquito bites and the trees that shade the coffee beans. It was a proper educational tour, visual, auditory and kinaesthetic to the core. We listened, we watched and we did. We held the branches under our arms and picked the beans. We tasted tree tomatoes and a new citrus fruit, we turned the wheel that peels the beans and sends them into a huge vat where they separate themselves, the bad beans that float to the top going to Chile to make Nescafe. We toasted, then ground them and finally drank the rich dark Arabica nectar several times over. It was one of the best £5 I have spent on this Sth. American journey.  From here we drove through small towns and villages to the campsite in Santa Teresa, where we dropped off our things and were taken to the hot springs. This was bliss after the long walks to unwind and soak and float in the four pools which are like hot baths. A brightly coloured parrot added to the view as it put on a brief flying display for those assembled. A drone passed overhead. Squadrons of mosquitoes had a field day, especially in the changing rooms. I counted 20 bites for the pleasure of an hour’s hot spring. Back at the campsite the music blared out tunes of a decade ago, we had our daily third feast and the young ones partied into the night, with tequila games and raucous chanting.

Typical high jungle scene

A family photo at the waterfall

One of the many species of orchid found in the Peruvian jungles

Freddie explaining about coffee

The family hard at work picking coffee beans

Sorting out good beans (stay in Peru) and bad ones (export to Chile)

Pouring out the fruits of the labour

Juan Carlos and Callie in the hot springs at Santa Teresa

A panoramic shot of the hot springs

Day 5: Santa Teresa to Aguas Calientes 18km

Today was different again. We set off downhill from the campsite at Santa Teresa, alomg the main road to the Hydroelectric Station. This is the road the traffic follows and is a very arid, dusty  one. As the sun beat down upon us and the dust kicked up and swirled around in the air it was quite uncomfortable at times. Juan Carlos, who had his faulty phone on his mind, kept a really brisk pace. Luckily this was the first day that I felt the altitude to not be a problem. Being much lower, I was able to maintain my normal walking pace and keep up for most of the time. Once we reached the Hydroelectric Station we moved on to the railway track, which we followed pretty much all the way to Aguas C alientes, stopping for lunch in a trackside food joint. Jorge had gone by this stage and the food was produced by the restaurant.  It seemed like all the groups were making really good time this day because Peru were due to play Ecuador in a World Cup qualifier that all the guides were keen to see. The final stretch took us away from the railway and uphill into Aguas Calientes, a town that has a train running through its main street and is a made-for-tourists mecca of cafes, restaurants, hotels and hostels.  This was the place where we re-entered the world of wifi and remade our connections with friends and family.  We wandered, collected our duffel bags from the train, ate in a restaurant and had a vital Machu Picchu briefing. The key fact to remember: up at 3 a.m.

Walking along the railway track

 

Susann and Werner

Callie walking over the bridge

Juan Carlos on the bridge

Day 6:  Machu Picchu

So, as I said, we were up at 3 a.m. and left twenty five minutes later to join the queue of people waiitng to get the bus to Machu Picchu. A huge Danish, and a coffee that didn’t come within a mile of Freddie’s brew, helped pass the time until 5.30, when we boarded one of the early buses. As night was about to give way to dawn, it took us up the steep, winding mountains towards the Holy Grail, the valley below receding further and further. Not for the first time on this trip I thought to myself that it was a long way down. Once at the top we joined about a hundred others and awaited the six o’clock opening.  When you have gone through the turnstile  you climb slightly and are presented with the most incredible view of the city below you, surrounded by innumerable mountain peaks.  Like the Taj Mahal, you wonder if it can live up to the hype and the thousands of photos you have seen, but, as with the former, it exceeds your preconceptions. Both are rightly included in the wonders of the world. We watched the sun come up over the mountain peaks, mesmerised by the sight before us. Juan Carlos took us on a three hour tour of the whole site, explaining the foundation of the city, the way the sun rises at different times above the mountain peaks between 21st June and 22nd December, casting its light into the sun temple and guiding the ancient Quechuan people about the best times to plant and to harvest potatoes. We heard how the conquistadors didn’t find Machu Picchu, hence it remained intact until Hiram Bingham discovered it in the early twentieth century. We walked amongst the terraces, the old houses, the temples, the industrial areas. It’s a fascinating place, mystical even, that has stood the test of time. I would recommend anyone to come here. You can come to Aguas Calientes and visit the site in a day, but I really feel that the build up to it, via the trek, made it more special. It feels more like a pilgrimage to a holy place.

For more information on Machu Picchu go to: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machu_Picchu

 

  

Words and pictures by Si @cre8ivation